I have to thank my Aunt and Uncle for sponsoring the trip and therefore making this once in a lifetime adventure possible. It was extremely fun to be in the Galapagos and that was only enhanced by having family and friends along to share in the adventures.
Itinerary
We spent a total of 16 days in Quito, Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands detailed below:
- 1 Day air travel from San Francisco to Quito
- 1 Day exploring Old Town Quito
- ½ Day air travel from Quito to Galapagos Islands (via Guayaquil) and ½ day relaxing in Galapagos (Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island)
- 4 Days Scuba Diving (various sites) in Galapagos Islands
- 7 1/2 Day Cruise in the Galapagos Islands (land based tours with snorkeling as an option as well.
- ½ day travel from Galapagos to Quito
- 1 Day air travel from Quito to San Francisco
This was a great itinerary for us, as we are big into scuba diving and wanted to have 4 days of diving before meeting the rest of the family. However, it would have been nice to have at least one more day in Quito to visit the Equator monument and the Gondola up the hill. Also, if people are not into scuba diving you can easily make the trip in just over a week or add other places in Ecuador such as Otavalo market or other places in the Andes or the Amazon to fill out a two week trip.
We traveled on for the dates of July 31 through August 12th, 2012 – this was a good time to be in Quito and the Galapagos but all year round is fine to travel here and weather changes only slightly with some more rain and higher or lower temperatures based on the season but again not a huge amount of variation but water temperatures are noticeably colder from June through November. The real seasonal issues are whether there is nesting, mating, and other wildlife that you really want to see (all year has their own unique wildlife things to see so you will have to choose).
Temperatures were in the high 70s F during the days in the Galapagos and in the high 60s at night. In Quito it was about 5 degrees cooler. The water temperature for those diving were around 67 F at the coldest.
Overall Impressions: The natural beauty of the Galapagos and the variety and uniqueness of the wildlife on the islands are truly world wonders and must see sights on the bucket list. Photos and descriptions in books do not do them justice. Every island offered something different from marine life to land animals and varied topography. We kept thinking that each day was better than the last and were surprised that every day was truly special in its own way. The scuba diving was very good and if you get a day with excellent visibility it would have been unreal. I was also impressed with Quito, as it was clean and the architecture and surrounding mountains made for some wonderful scenery.
The trip had no down time, but each activity offered a new insight into the evolution of the islands and the species and it was important to see everything. We were happy to wake up early in the morning to see the wildlife when they were active and would recommend going for 7-days or more if you can take the time. We also enjoyed having a mid-sized boat that minimized the rough seas but allowed us to get to know other passengers and the crew.
I would love to return to the Galapagos for additional scuba diving and wildlife tours. I would also like to return to and Ecuador for additional visits to the Amazon or just to explore small towns in the Andes and beyond.
I am happy to report that all of Ecuador and especially the Galapagos is concerned and doing a great job in regards to recycling, conservation, and protecting the natural environment. The precautions we went through to protect the natural world were well followed by the crew and all passengers and this was one of the few places outside the US and Europe that I witnessed a genuine interest in recycling.
Detailed Trip Posts:
A few of the Top Photos
Sights
- Galapagos Islands – lava flows, sea turtles, giant tortoises, marine iguanas, land iguanas, blue footed bobbies, rays – just to name a few of the highlights over the week we spent doing land and snorkeling activities. During our scuba diving we say hammerhead sharks, eagle rays, playing with sea lions, reef sharks, and sea turtles galore were the highlights of 4 days diving.
- Old Town Quito – this was about the architecture and the culture. The old buildings and churches were well maintained on the outside and contained gorgeous art on the insides. I highly recommend Iglesias San Francisco and surrounding square, Plaza Grande, the Presidential Palace (where you can hopefully see the president in action like we did), the Iglesias de la Compañia de Jesus, and the Basicila del Voto Nacional (for the gargoyles of unique Ecuadorian wildlife if nothing else).
I will cover scuba diving more in depth in my detailed post but in summary I would highly recommend people scuba dive in the Galapagos even if it is only for a day or two. The variety of life from hammerheads sharks, mobula rays, eagle rays, and tropical reef fish was wonderful. The dive sights can be geared to fit your diving experience (although beginners should be cautioned there are no super easy dive sites here). The water while not tropical warm is definitely not as cold as here in California. The currents and surge can be strong but again not that much worse than other dives I have experienced.
I would highly recommend both Scuba Galapagos (great boat, staff, and itineraries) who we dove with and Scuba Iguana (very helpful shop and looked to have good equipment and itineraries) who helped us with a number of diving related questions we had.
http://www.scubagalapagos.com/content/home.php
http://www.scubaiguana.com/
Sleeping
- Finch Bay Hotel - Stayed here while we were scuba diving each day and only spent the evenings and mornings at the hotel. The hotel itself is gorgeous with superb service and has the best view in Puerto Ayora. The pool and beach were superb and we were lucky to use that for the one afternoon we were not scuba diving. The rooms were good sized with nice balconies (not all are private) to enjoy the views and provide a good area to dry out our diving gear. The only real downside is that you have to take a water taxi to and from the hotel because it is not directly in Puerto Ayora. This is nice if you want a luxurious place to stay and do not want or need to venture into town. As we went to town everyday to meet our scuba diving charter it was a little bit of a pain but that in no way diminishes the quality of the hotel. It would be nice if the taxis ran on more of a set schedule rather than the hope and wait technique that was employed later in the evenings and early in the mornings. The hotel is worth the price if you want a place to relax and lounge, unfortunately we did not get to use enough of the wonderful features.
- Hotel Patio Andaluz - The quality of the service and facilities was excellent. Breakfast was very good and the rooms were very good as well. The rooms were decent sized but not huge and were well appointed but not overly luxurious. Lower priced than the Plaza Grande next door but not nearly as luxurious. The location was superb for exploring old town but beware that Old Town is deserted at night with a lot of empty restaurants and closed shops. The staff was helpful but there were a few moments of confusion in regards to booking (didn't receive an email for over a week) and got some differing responses in regards to the welcome drink and breakfast (likely lost in translation) but no major issues. Overall I would recommend this for a nice stay in old town with a convenient location, clean and nice rooms, and quality service.
- Hotel Plaza Grande –Unfortunately we only stayed here one night. The hotel had excellent service from top to bottom, and the staff went out of their way to help with our early morning departures. The rooms were large with great amenities and extra touches including: roses, welcome desserts, and large areas for sitting and/or happy hours with friends. The bed was extremely comfortable and I wish I had one more night of sleep here. The rooms were also very quiet. This would be considered a splurge place by me but I would still highly recommend it. Location is good for Old Town Quito but as mentioned in other places make sure you know that old town is very quiet at night when most shops and restaurants are closed.
- Angermeyer Waterfront Inn - Stayed here while we were scuba diving each day and only spent the evenings and mornings at the hotel. The hotel itself nice with good views over the bay (not as nice of a view as Finch bay Hotel). The rooms were good sized and larger than Finch Bay. Most of them have balconies (not all are private) to enjoy the bay views and provide an area to dry out clothes and dive gear. Note that you have to take a water taxi to and from the hotel because it is not directly in Puerto Ayora. We went to town everyday to meet our scuba diving charter it was a little bit of a pain but that in no way diminishes the quality of the hotel. The hotel is quieter than those in town and although not as luxurious as the Finch Bay it does have very large rooms and comes as a more reasonable price than the Finch Bay if you do not need a beach and pool area to relax.
- MV Eclipse – ok this wasn’t a hotel it was a place that we slept for a week. The Eclipse cruise ship cannot be recommended highly enough. The rooms were very good size, had high quality amenities, and amazed us with the great food and staff. In addition and most importantly the naturalists and guides were top notch. Not only were they excellent about explaining about the natural sights they were very good at taking us snorkeling, hiking, etc and judging how much or little we wanted to do. This was truly a great boat with the little things taken care of for you.
- Tianquez (Quito) - Although more expensive than other cafes, food was excellent. We knew we were paying more than the local cafe with an almuerzo option but the food was excellent. I would rate the overall experience as very good but not excellent as the service was terribly slow (possibly this was due to a few large tour groups who dropped in before us).
- Mea Culpa (Quito) - we came here on our last night in Quito with a big group of family and friends (12 people to be exact). This is one of the most expensive restaurants in Quito - so be aware of that if you are trying to eat at a value place. However, the food presentation, flavor, and variety of western dishes and Ecuadorian options were excellent. The sauces and the food was better than other meals we had in Ecuador. However, the prices were much higher than other meals. The service was slow but as we were having a good time we didn't notice it too much until the end of the night when we finally did want the check. We also likely got better service because we were such a large table. Although it didn't matter to us due to our table location the decor and view from the windows out to the Plaza were very good and helped make the night a little more special. While not a cheap place I would highly recommend this for a high quality special dinner in Quito, just don’t expect rush service.
- Hasta La Vuesta, Senor (Quito) - Very good local Ecuadorian food in a somewhat touristy place. It like other places we went was more expensive than a so called local cafe but the food was excellent and presented well. The service here was good and efficient.
- The Rocks (Puerto Ayora, Galapagos) – We came here a number of times over a one week period to imbibe the Caipirinha's on their crazy hour menu, which runs from 5-7pm every night. The drinks themselves were very good with a good balance of ingredients, sugar, lime and alcohol. The service was good and fast, despite the fact that we ordered at least 5 drinks every order and the bartender had to make each one separately (this were not from a premade syrup). Also liked the tostadas / cornnuts for a nice snack with the drinks. The place was clean, had televisions that always showed sports and the decor was kitschy but fun with beach items, fishing items, and tortoise shells and a variety of other items over the bar and on the walls.
Make sure to get there early for a seat as the happy hour/crazy hour does fill up around 6pm or so. We did not try the food so I recommend this for a nice drink but can’t comment on the food quality. - La Garrapata (Puerto Ayora, Galapagos) – We came here three times over a two week period; twice for dinner and once for lunch. The food was consistently excellent, and we tried a variety of fish dishes and salads. The fish was always fresh and cooked well. The salads were very good as well with good ingredients and flavors. Except some unripe avocados. The service was always prompt but the cooking can take awhile, as we found out when 5 of us ordered grilled fish and found out that the grill isn't quite big enough to handle large orders. As we had plenty of time that evening it turned out ok as we grabbed another beer. The price is a good value compared to other places on Charles Darwin Avenue, but as mentioned in other reviews it is not as cheap as some of the "local" options. The outside seating is nice but the view is just ok as you do look out on Charles Darwin Avenue. Highly recommended.
- Angermeyer Point (Puerto Ayora, Galapagos) – The food had been highly recommended was grilled fish (wahoo only when we were there) with a variety of sauces. The presentation, the quality of cooking and the flavor of the sauces were very good. However, they only had one fish option and the menu was otherwise uninspiring. The view out to the bay and solitude away from town was nice. The biggest downer was that the service was VERY slow and really over shadowed an otherwise very good restaurant. If you are staying at Finch Bay or Angermeyer Inn this is a convenient choice but not worth a trip from town. This is not a value place either and again for the price was not worth the trip.
- Red Sushi Bar Restaurant (Puerto Ayora, Galapagos) –The location and view out to the bay and the the seclusion of being located at the end of Charles Darwin Av. was very nice. The staff went above and beyond to sit us outside as a group of 5, as they literally made a spot for us. The service was prompt as well and efficient during the meal. The sushi was good for what it was, in that the fish was very fresh but the rice was soggy/sticky and took away from the overall food rating. It was nice to be able to get sushi in Puerto Ayora, but after a week here I preferred the grilled fish places mentioned above. However, if you are craving some raw fish this will hit the spot. It is priced above average but it is unique and wasn't outrageously expensive.
Must try/local food
- Seco De Chivo – goat stew
- Locro Sopa – potato and cheese soup, topped with avocado
- Empanadas – usually cheese filled and eaten for breakfast or snacks
- Espumilla – mousse like dish that is flavored in many ways and sold in restaurants and on the street
- Fish – we had simple grilled fish (A la brasa) and fish in coconut to name a few great ways for this food that is very fresh in the Galapagos
- Humitas – these are like tamales and usually cheese filled
- Pilsener and Club beer – preferred Club beer even though it was about 50 cents more expensive than Pilsener. The taste with Club was richer as Pilsener was a little more watery but still decent beer, especially on a warm day.
Shopping
We did not shop all that much but did buy some jewelry charms and t-shirts. I would recommend Galapagos Jewelry in Puerto Ayora and the street vendors in Quito for cheap Panama hats.
Other Tips
As in most places in the world, make sure to be careful with your valuables and money throughout Ecuador. We never felt unsafe or threatened and had no issues walking around Quito, even at night.
The lack of English in Ecuador can be a challenge for most but luckily we had some Spanish speakers with our group (not me) and were able to navigate with no problems. However, if you do not speak any Spanish make sure to pick up a phrasebook for Quito but in the Galapagos you will be fine as they are well setup for tourists.
Packing List can be accessed here. (to be updated)
Additional Practicalities and Tips can be found here including currency, visas, etc. (to be updated)
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